The tech that serviced your door must not understand simple mechanics. The tracks do not move, so they do not need to be lubricated. All that does is make a mess. The rollers and hinges DO move, so it is logical to lubricate them, at the hinge barrel or pivot point, and in the little area near the stem of the rollers where you can see the bearings. Adding a bit of lube to the torsion spring also cuts down on the friction between the coils and makes the spring glide easier. However, too much will make it spritz out lube as the door opens and closes, and that it less than desirable. Same thing for pulleys on an extension spring door.
Center and level the first section after you install the brackets. The door must be level even if the floor isn’t, so use shims under the section to level it. The rubber gasket on the bottom section will fill the gaps created by an unlevel floor. To hold the level in place, tape it to the section. To hold the section in place, lightly toenail a 16d nail into the frame and bend it over the section. Add brackets and rollers before setting them in place and stack one section on top of another, toenailing as you go up.

Thank you, thank you, thank you for sharing your knowledge. I just replaced our shower cartridge and our leak is FIXED!!!!!!! Your instructional was clear and concise. I did purchase 2 cartridges first, because I did not know the type it was and could not pull it out without the plastic cover it comes with. Fortunately, it was one of the two. By the way I'm a 63 year old woman. If I can do it, anyone with internet and a little patience and an hour can do it.....


The Certified Technician, Rey Lopez, was competent, professional, polite, and willing to work. He quickly removed the old door and installed the new one. He then explained the vast differences between what we originally had and what we'd just purchased (stronger spring/tension rates; increased viability of door opening/closing life; beefier hardware; plastic vs. nylon rollers; stronger door reinforcement). Ray performed with alacrity his tasks and then demonstrated the quiet, solid way the door retracted--no banging after the initial rise from the ground. Finally, his attention to detail was so precise that he enabled another remote controlling all three doors, plus he capped some frayed wires, thus solving the problem of why the door opened intermittently. I would rate him a "6" on a scale of "1-5", meaning he went above and beyond our expectations. His "can do" attitude, coupled with the deference he showed, will take him a long, long way. May HaShem richly bless him in his endeavors!read more
One of the last safety features on a garage door system is the manual release mechanism. Designed to disengage the garage door from the opening system should entrapment, a power outage or other malfunction occur, the manual release mechanism is most commonly found on the track that runs from opener to the garage door. It’s usually a bright red handle that should hang no higher than 6 feet off the ground.
R-value describes the power of the insulation in your door. The higher the r-value, the stronger the insulation. Those doors will have better energy efficiency than doors that have a low r-value. Basic doors have an r-value of 0.0 with no insulation. The first step up gives you 1-3/8” insulation at a 6.5 rating. Next, a 1-3/8” thickness with Intellicore has a 12.9 r-value. The best option on the market is the 18.4 r-value, which has 2” Intellicore insulation.
Our technicians are specially trained to handle a variety of garage brands, styles, and configurations. After arriving at your home, a Sears technician will diagnose the problem and walk you through the options for fixing it. Next, the technician will make any necessary adjustments or replace broken parts to ensure the door can be operational once again. We always attempt to complete repairs the same day of service, and your satisfaction is guaranteed. Our representatives are standing by for your call and are happy discuss pricing options.
Install the stiffening strut on top of the top section of steel doors with the section lying flat. Then install the opener bracket that replaces the center bracket between the top two sections. While you’re working on the sections, protect them from scratches by putting carpet scraps on top of your sawhorses. Now, slide the rollers into the roller brackets.
If the light attached to the door opener mechanism blinks several times after the door reopens, this generally means something is blocking the sensors or that they've become misaligned.  The two sensors are generally clipped onto the door track about six inches from the floor. You can move them slightly with your hands to try to get them lined up.   Other possibilities include a broken cable that must be replaced, a track that is bent and needs to be replaced or a worn extension spring cable pulley that needs to be replaced.
R-value describes the power of the insulation in your door. The higher the r-value, the stronger the insulation. Those doors will have better energy efficiency than doors that have a low r-value. Basic doors have an r-value of 0.0 with no insulation. The first step up gives you 1-3/8” insulation at a 6.5 rating. Next, a 1-3/8” thickness with Intellicore has a 12.9 r-value. The best option on the market is the 18.4 r-value, which has 2” Intellicore insulation.
Roberto was very courteous and explained the details of what he was doing. He also pointed out a repair I might consider having done (replacement of the bottom panel of my door) and asked the office to follow up with me on this. Someone did follow up with me and since replacement of the bottom panel is not an option and I would have to replace the door, I decided that I can wait.
Home Depot local Service Providers are background checked, insured, licensed and/or registered. License or registration numbers held by or on behalf of Home Depot U.S.A., Inc. are available at homedepot.com/licensenumbers or at the Special Services Desk in The Home Depot store. State specific licensing information includes: AL 51289, 1924; AK 25084; AZ ROC252435, ROC092581; AR 228160518; CA 602331; CT HIC.533772; DC 420214000109, 410517000372; FL CRC046858, CGC1514813; GA RBCO005730, GCCO005540; HI CT-22120; ID RCE-19683; IA C091302; LA 43960, 557308, 883162; MD 85434, 42144; MA 112785, CS-107774; MI 2101089942, 2102119069; MN BC147263; MS 22222-MC; MT 37730; NE 26085; NV 38686; NJ 13VH09277500; NM 86302; NC 31521; ND 29073; OR 95843; The Home Depot U.S.A., Inc. is a Registered General Contractor in Rhode Island and its Registration Number is 9480; SC GLG110120; TN 47781; UT 286936-5501; VA 2705-068841; WA HOMED088RH; WV WV036104; WI 1046796.
Very professional and great customer service. I received a 30 minute courtesy call before they arrived and answered all my questions regarding my problems. They came to give me an estimate, but I was so impressed with them they installed garage door openers the same day. Even corrected panel issues from builder. I would definitely recommend anyone that is looking for a repair or replace. The Js'

Hmmm...Intro to E12...looks suspiciously like a freehand angled cut on that contractor saw... Yes, the riving knife might save you from a dangerous kickback...but still a very bad idea.. Why not a 'safety segment' explaining kickback and why you should not do this (styrofoam demo, back side of the blade teeth rising up grabbing the foam and throwing it back at you...)

Garage Door Service Company

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