Annual maintenance. Make an annual check of all nuts and bolts on rails and rollers to make sure they’re firmly tightened. Check the condition of all cables to make sure they’re not worn or frayed. Lubricate rollers and springs with a garage-door lubricant (see How to Fix a Noisy Garage Door for maintenance and problem-solving tips). The door should operate smoothly and be properly balanced. Check the balance by disconnecting the opener and lowering the door halfway- the door should hold its position. If it doesn’t, adjust the spring tension or replace the springs.
They sell insulation kits at the local big box hardware store and I cringe every time I see them. The box weighs about 15 pounds, which doesn't sound like a lot. It is definitely enough to un-balance a garage door. The springs are calibrated for the weight of the door, and adding weight makes the door "heavy" for the springs. This means that if you pull an operator disconnect handle when the door is in the open position, the door is likely to descend much more quickly than you anticipate. People have been hurt when a garage door came down on them and the momentum knocked them over. Only add weight if the door springs can be re-torqued or replaced with springs of the proper pull.

Roller doors ("Sheet Doors"-USA) are usually constructed of corrugated steel. They evolved from cover window and door coverings.[4] Other materials can be used (e.g.; transparent corrugated fibreglass) where strong impact resistance is not required. Corrugations give the door strength against impacts. A typical single car garage roller door has a preloaded spring inside the rolling mechanism. The spring reduces the effort required to open the door. Larger roller doors in commercial premises are not sprung (except USA) and use a manual pulley and chain system or a geared motor to raise and lower (roll up and roll down) the door. Roller doors cannot be effectively insulated.
Test the door balance. A garage door should require only a few pounds of pressure to move it up and down. If springs wear out and lose their resiliency, a power garage door opener may need to work extra hard to lift the door. This can quickly wear out the motor on the opener. Replacing worn-out springs is usually a job for a professional technician.
Another key safety feature to prevent entrapment from garage doors is the “electric eye” sensor system found on many more modern garage door systems. Sensors placed on either side of the garage door’s track system about 4 to 6 inches off the ground transmit an infrared beam of light during a door’s closing operation. Should anything break the beam during the closing operation – including adults, pets or other objects – the opener should automatically stop and reverse the closing operation.
Extension spring systems should always be restrained by a safety cable that runs through the middle of the spring, tying off to a solid point at the rear and front of the horizontal door track. Extension springs represent a hazard to bystanders when a spring, pulley, or cable breaks under tension. Metal parts from extension spring systems can suddenly be launched.
You can choose from three basic types of steel door: (1) steel only; (2) steel with insulation on the inside; and (3) steel on both sides with 1-3/8 to 2 in. of insulation. Other features that add to the cost are thicker insulation and windows, especially insulated windows. The do-it-yourself tensioning systems also add a little to the door’s cost. Be sure to specify exactly what you want. 

R-value describes the power of the insulation in your door. The higher the r-value, the stronger the insulation. Those doors will have better energy efficiency than doors that have a low r-value. Basic doors have an r-value of 0.0 with no insulation. The first step up gives you 1-3/8” insulation at a 6.5 rating. Next, a 1-3/8” thickness with Intellicore has a 12.9 r-value. The best option on the market is the 18.4 r-value, which has 2” Intellicore insulation.
Commercial Door Spokane - a division of Precision Door Service. We specialize in the repair and maintenance of your commercial, industrial, and municipal doors, as well as fire doors and gates. Keep your doors open for business all year long with the best commercial parts and 24 hour service for whenever you need help. Trust your business in the hands of the experts at Precision Door and never settle for a garage door company that doesn’t have your best interests in mind.
With hundreds of moving parts that are all required to work together, it's no surprise that garage doors may need occasional repair and maintenance. Garage door repair services are also required in emergency situations, like when the garage door won't operate and the car is trapped inside or you've accidentally backed into the door when it was closed. Whether it's a specific repair of your garage door opener, a broken spring that needs to be replaced, or a bent or rusted track, The Home Depot's local, licensed service providers can get the job done quickly and efficiently.

The tech that serviced your door must not understand simple mechanics. The tracks do not move, so they do not need to be lubricated. All that does is make a mess. The rollers and hinges DO move, so it is logical to lubricate them, at the hinge barrel or pivot point, and in the little area near the stem of the rollers where you can see the bearings. Adding a bit of lube to the torsion spring also cuts down on the friction between the coils and makes the spring glide easier. However, too much will make it spritz out lube as the door opens and closes, and that it less than desirable. Same thing for pulleys on an extension spring door.


Hmmm...Intro to E12...looks suspiciously like a freehand angled cut on that contractor saw... Yes, the riving knife might save you from a dangerous kickback...but still a very bad idea.. Why not a 'safety segment' explaining kickback and why you should not do this (styrofoam demo, back side of the blade teeth rising up grabbing the foam and throwing it back at you...)

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