Here is an odd problem that I cannot figure out. I am handy with electrical stuff, but this one has me stumped. My small kitchen appliances all work on a single circuit, with 5 outlets. One of those outlets has a 20Amp breaker built into it with a test and resent button (I never understood what the test button is for). I only have a toaster, a floor lamp and occasionally a coffee grinder plugged into the circuit. Suddenly, none of the outlets work. Nothing new, no new appliances, the whole circuit went dead. I noticed when I trigger the reset button, there is an immediate click and it goes out again. I have tripped and reset the main breaker on the circuit board in the garage, nothing. Power gets to the outlet, but it doesn't work and there is no electricity in any of the 5. I un plugged everything. Reset the breaker on the outlet. It clicked again immediately, still no electricity. I changed out the outlet, with a new one with breaker built in which I bought today at Home Depot. Same problem. I tested for electricity, the outlet with the built in breaker receives 120v electricity coming in, but it always seems to be shorted out and does not send it out. I assume that all of the 5 outlets are connected inline, so thinking that if I went one by one, I'd be able to find a short. I opened all of the boxes, checked everything and all looks clean, new, no problems. I completely disconnected the two outlets that are closest to the main one with thereset button and nothing.Help
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I have recently purchased a house with an older roof that needs to be restored soon. So, I am trying to decide on I should go with a metal roof other than shingles. If I install metal roofing over solid decking such as OSB or plywood, integrate with a properly insulated garret, there is very little noise difference compared to standard asphalt shingles. I have briefly read benefits and drawbacks of Metal roofing but as I listed before I should go to metal roofing and hiring a roofing contractor no matter its expensive or noisy anyhow, Your article has cleared a lot of misinterpretation I’ve had before.
Step 5: Check for loose hardware, and tighten as needed. On swing-up doors, check the plates where the spring is mounted to be sure the screws are tight, and tighten any loose screws. On roll-up doors, check the hinges that hold the sections of the door together; tighten any loose screws, and replace any damaged hinges. Sagging at one side of the door can often be corrected by servicing the hinges. If a screw hole is enlarged, replace the screw with a longer one of the same diameter, and use a hollow fiber plug, dipped in carpenters' glue, with the new screw. If the wood is cracked at a hinge, remove the hinge and fill the cracks and the screw holes with wood filler. Let the filler dry and then replace the hinge. If possible, move the hinge onto solid wood.
Hmmm...Intro to E12...looks suspiciously like a freehand angled cut on that contractor saw... Yes, the riving knife might save you from a dangerous kickback...but still a very bad idea.. Why not a 'safety segment' explaining kickback and why you should not do this (styrofoam demo, back side of the blade teeth rising up grabbing the foam and throwing it back at you...)
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